Waterfall overdose in Plitvice National Park

As Î told earlier, I fractured my finger while rafting down the Cetina River with my sister. That´s why when my husband then came for a week's vacation, we decided to stick with a bit less adventurous activities. For a long time, we had been talking about going to Plitvice National Park and now it was time to tick that one off from our "What we would like to do and see in Croatia" bucket list. Plitvice is located inland near the border of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Driving to there takes a bit less than three hours from Split, so it is basically a whole day trip to visit there. Plitvice National Park was founded already in 1949 and its core is the area of the 16 lakes and waterfalls between them and the starting point of Korana River. We had heard from many that the place was worth a visit, now it was time to see if that´s true.


We left home little after 6 am in order to arrive to Plitvice early. As we approached the park area, the clouds landed down and the thick mist covered the countryside landscapes, which in some places resembled a lot like certain areas in Finland. We finally found the entrance number 2 to park, which is closer coming from the south. There are two entrances to the park, number 1 is easier to reach coming from north. After getting the car parked it was time to get the tickets. At the moment tickets cost 150 kn (about 20eur) per adult, during peak season in July-August the price rises to a 250 kunas. The price includes rides by electric train and boat in the park are if they are on the route you decide to take. There are a number of different route options to choose from, they are well marked on the paths wandering around the lakes and the waterfalls. The shortest are only a few kilometers, you can extend the route and at the same time increase the amount of things to see and experience. We decided to take Route H, less than 9 kilometers long path which covered the entire area nicely including train and boat rides. On the way we did a few extra steps and after nearly at the finishing point we then took a walk by the lake instead of final train ride increasing the length of the walking to total of 14km.

We started off from the upstream as the electric train took us to the starting point of our route on upper lakes. From there we then started our way towards the lower lakes gradually as does the water also. The path is mostly a wooden "bridge" that takes you forward as the water flows under your feet. At some points there is of course also normal trails on ground, like when you are passing the lakes. The surroundings for these paths are amazing. Larger and smaller waterfalls and little cascades just emerged one after another in this lush greenery creating almost fairy tail atmosphere. They just came and came as the route went on. Between them you have these calm lakes and you can truly de-stress yourself by walking along the shore of the lake under the trees as branches are almost reaching the surface of the clear water. Then again you can hear the sound of the next waterfall getting closer... So beautiful. Waterfall overdose easily obtained.

The highest waterfall in the park is the last one going downstream so it was at the end of our selected route H. It was great, but somehow I would have to say that I was more impressed by the waterfall clusters in the first part of our route before the boat ride to lover lakes. In addition, at that stage of the day the crowd began to be already too much in our scale. The big guided groups filled the path and the landscape. Fortunately instead of the scenic train ride we chose to walk to our final destination. The tranquil path went along the water´s edge of the big lake, just a few other people and there was also a spot where Tiuku was able take a refreshing dip in the clear lake. Swimming for humans is forbidden throughout the park, very understandably. If even part of thousands of park visitors would refresh themselves in cool water, it would be a complete disaster and would certainly ruin not only the water quality but also the ecosystem of the area. And the idea of towels and floaties spreading over the narrow paths is quite appalling.

To conclude, Plitvice is definitely worth a visit. Even though there is a bit of of driving if coming from the Split area. We drove the fastest route in the morning, that is the motorway, but we returned home via road number 1, the so-called "old road". It is nice well-paved road that takes you through Gračac, Knin and Sinj. I recommend this option, the route has some great sceneries and more to see than what you get driving the motorway.

Check list for Plitvice's visitor:
* Go early! I would say you should be there by 8 am at the latest, the park will open at seven o'clock. This is to avoid the most crowded times and at least in some part of the route you can walk at your own pace and not with the thousands of others. I promise that an early wake up would be worthwhile in this case. The early start is even more recommended during the high season.
* Spring, fall and winter. The park is open all year round and I would personally recommend visiting especially in the spring before the start of the high season and on the other hand after the high season during the autumn colors. If you travel to Zagreb for its famous Christmas Market, why not take a relaxing trip away from the bustle of the city to see the winterish Plitvice?
* Book the whole day for this. Do not plan anything special for the evening because the day will be long and all the wonderful this place has to offer will ultimately wear you out a bit. And it is worth taking time to really enjoy of it.
* Take good shoes. Hiking shoes are not needed, but the flip flops can be a bit uncomfortable and slippery, especially on uneven wooden bridges. It is a good idea to leave the high heels at the hotel, the sneakers or some of the slightly firmer shoes are good.
* Take something to drink and little snack with you. The area has a few cafes selling food and drinks, but they are crowded and of course quite expensive. A few bottles of water in the backpack together with maybe some fruit and ready-made sandwich will be nice to have. Remember to take all the trash with you after your brake.
* Enjoy the sight also without the camera lens. Even though I myself did take quite a lot of pictures, it's also important to enjoy the moments in live and save them as mental memories in addition to the digital images. Relax and breathe the fresh air. Plitvice is not a place for stress but for the wondering of the gorgeous and relaxing nature.

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Rafting adventure at Cetina River

Have to say that I have some pressure inside me now. Writing pressure. So much have happened during these past weeks and I would have loved to share some of it with you but circumstances have been against that. I fractured my finger and there has been few different type of splints in it. First it was tided to the finger next to it making my right hand almost useless and now the splint is just in the actual fractured finger making my life a bit easier. Meaning also that I can again write using both hands. I normally write with a pretty smooth 10-finger system but with this weird 9-finger system that is now in use there seems to be a lot of mistakes to correct and my brain is going way more faster than my fingers can function causing some turbulence between them. But here we finally go and in this text you can find out the reason for this slightly disadvantaged state I´m in.

My sister came here from Finland and we spent a wonderful week during which we experienced and saw a lot and we talked even more. We have always been close and now as we live in different countries these moments of actually being together are priceless. Can´t wait to see her again in Finland in few weeks time as I go there to spend couple of months enjoying the northern summer. Anyway, one of the things we did while she was here was rafting down the Cetina River.

I have previous experience on the subject once in Bali, for my sister this was the first time. We were the only customers on this a bit different ride. We were accompanied by an experienced rafting guide Toni and also Nickolas who was at the end of his instructional training to become a rafting guide and now it was time for his assessment test so Toni monitored his level of expertise while we were going down the river. When we arrived at the starting point we were given the necessary equipment meaning helmets and life jackets followed by instructions and few demonstrations before we actually started our ride. Because there was just two of us actually paddling, it was time to time serious work in the bright sunshine during the peaceful calm parts of the river and it didn´t take long for the first drops of sweat to ride down our backs. But there was also time to wonder the great wildlife around us, the clear water revealed the fish and we also saw few small snakes swimming. The lush greenery, small waterfalls bringing the water from the streams and the majestic canyon landscape created such a framework that one could not ask for more.

The three-hour ride, a total of about 11km, was mostly fairly peaceful with a few small easy rapids coming from time to time and we managed to get through them easily. The most challenging part of the entire ride was after midway, at one point in that part we were even told to sit on the bottom of the raft instead of the normal place on the edge. And that's where I hit the finger to something causing the fracture. I didn't even notice it at the time so not sure what exactly happened, we were just laughing as the rapid pushed us from side to side in the raft. Only after we got back to the calm water I noticed a little feeling in my finger and that is was in a bit weird position: after the knuckle the first joint wanted to go to almost 90 degree downwards and then end the finger was even too straight. I was able to keep the finger in normal position without pain but it didn't feel quite ok. A more experienced guide explored my finger, it did not reveal any sharp or sudden pain related to bones being broken but it clearly began to swell. At that point we just assumed the joints had taken a bad hit but that´s all. We exchanged places so that I was able to keep my hand in cold river water while Tony paddled on my place. After about 15 minutes I continued paddling again, still no pain in the finger. At the end of the ride we helped with one rescue test that Nickolas had to pass. My sister and Toni throwed themselves into the river and shouted for help, Nickolas then had to rescue them with the rope within given time. I took time as catching the rope in the water and holding on to it might have been difficult with my injured finger. Nickolas passed the test with great time.

Although I was unlucky with my finger, I can highly recommend rafting adventure. During the trip you have the opportunity to stop swimming and even cliff jumping if you wish. At the end of our ride I also took a refreshing dip in the river, my sister already got that done during the rescue mission. As a nature experience this is at the very peak, the canyon of the Cetina River is truly impressive and the river environment is wonderfully green, water clear and pure. And after the ride it´s nice to have lunch in the city of Omiš, where the river meets the Adriatic. So if you happen to be around Split or Omiš, then do book a ride to enjoy beautiful Cetina River by rafting.

International garden party in a small Croatian village

The other day I was browsing the miraculous world of Facebook and my eye hit a release in the Expats in Split -group. It was about this happening that was planned to take place in the next day, 1st of May gathering that was to be arranged at a Dutch couple's house in the small inland village. How did I missed that even though it was apparently communicated for days now? Since I did not have any kind of plans for the day in question, I quickly asked if there still would be one seat available in the minivan going from Split to the venue. There was so suddenly I did have plans for the coming day.

The scenery in our destination consisted of mountains and lush green vegetation.

The next morning I jumped from the nearest bus stop to a small van with a nice international bunch of people allready in. Among them was a British lady who I had previously met in a joint walk in Marjan Park and actually she turned out to be the only person I knew before hand out of all the people joining to this gathering. We first drove the coastal road to Omiš and then followed the Cetina river towards the hinterland. Finally in the small village we were greeted by the host of the day and the other participants of this party. In our international group there were people at least from USA, UK,  Germany, Holland, Chile, Italy, Canada, Russia, Croatia and of course Finland through me. Perhaps others too, when talking to all the wonderfull people I did not allways check the country of origin. All in all, this overwhelming garden party was attended by over 30 people, from children to retired and everything in between. Surrounding nature was lush and green with a view to the mountains, there was good food (a special mention for that Indonesian peanut sauce, it sure was yammy) and a large variety of drinks to keep us refreshed. Above all, there was plenty of jolly good company. A couple of dogs circled among the people and in their cage chickens and a rooster followed the course of the events. The time flew as is does in merry occasions.

The quest house served as a venue to our merry gathering.

Our international community consists mostly of people who for one reason or another have decided to stay here in Croatia and more exactly around Split area a bit longer than 1-2 weeks of vacation. There are some local reinforcements in the gang also, usually they are the reason (= spouse) for the expats to be here. It was so interesting to hear stories from different people regarding how they have ended up here. There surely was a lot of shared experiences related to the difficult language and the Croatian bureaucracy. In the latter case, I was congratulated when I told my own story about getting a temporary stay permit. We received it in one day after only spending about 20 min at the counter in police station. No one asked any "interview questions" or demanded any extra papers with stamps or to translate documents into Croatian (some of our papers were even in Finnish). Many EU citizens have spent much more time and energy on this issue not to mention those from outside of EU, then the stories go wild to say the least. Altogether, this kind of peer support is important and useful. Previously I found an excellent and skilled masseuse after asking for recommendations from this group. Sometimes people coming from abroad can provide a little more objective assessment as regards for example some services. Depends on the matter when it´s best to ask advice or recommendation from a trusted local or from a trusted group of expats.

Our Dutch hosts have settled in a small mountain village, they have build a house for them selves and in the garden there was also this quest house which was now the center of our party. They enjoy the life in a peaceful and unspoilt village in the middle of the mountains. Although the place is seemingly quite remote at the end of small narrow mountain road, it is about 15 minutes away from the Omiš beach town were you can go get some more hustle and bustle if wanting to do so. Rather perfect, I would say. The same thing could be said about the whole day we had yesterday. The weather was just superb, the fruit trees gave a nice shade and a cozy atmosphere entwined us all. Rather perfect, I would say.

Some whoosh and shake in Dalmatia

Yesterday evening it again attacked us. It came behind the mountains, strengthened with the support of the freezing forces of the north. While diving into the pass between mountains it was pressed like a diamond under pressure and its power got more scary. From the pass it hit us, it was everywhere and it surely showed its mighty power. Bura, that gloomy northern wind.

The local meteorological center had already issued a formal red warning to the Dalmatian area in good time, luckily bura is not coming as suprise. The motorway was completely closed from traffic, often there is only a ban on large vehicles such as trucks and vans, but now all. There are breaks in the ferry service to the close by islands at sea and boats are urged to stay in ports. Here, the coast was warned of damages on buildings and other structures. When the wind blows up to 140km/h (that's about 39m/s) you surely should hold on to your hat.

When the night fell on us, it finally hit our village. Kitchen hood was buzzing and clattering even though it wasn´t turned on. The gusts bumbed into the walls of the house and howled around corners, on the balcony citrus and laurel trees were blowed from the dust and spider's quite effectively. The electricity broke down a couple of times darkening the whole village and rain was hitting the windows with the power of the wind. I went to bed being happy I had strong concrete walls around me instead of that straw house that sheltered three little piglets in the children story in witch the wolf blowed the house away.

In the middle of the night I woke up to the sound of my wardrobe doors clattering. At first I wondered how the wind could catch them until I realized the bed was shaking. Mother Nature sure was putting on a show and added an earthquake to this spectacle. Fortunately, it quickly faded away. As I learned in the morning the center was located little over twenty kilometers from here and it was  3.6 magnitude on the Richter scale.

The morning was sunny and calm, new day started out as usual. Even confusingly usual, where were the damages of the storm? Here the plants have bura resistance in their genes, they do bend but do not break under these winds. The tile roofs are not torn to the wind, they are firmly attached to their base. Except some occasional light garbage containers or other small stuff, everything is where it should be. In January last year, bura was windmilling deserted Christmas trees as tumbleweed at the desert, nothing like that this time.

The three buras of March are kind of concept in here. Actually, they are quite expected cause after the storms warm days are coming and it´s time to head towards summer. There is already a lot of buds in the lemon tree waiting for the nice sunny days so they can open.

Encounter with locals

I usually have 1-2 hour walk everyday with Tiuku and so did we yesterday also. As we were walking down the village road an elderly couple approached us on the street. As it often happens, they also started to speak something to Tiuku. That something sounded like baby talk and at least term small dog was mentioned in it. Tiuku stopped politely to listen with the tail waving and as often happens when the movement stops, her hind legs started to shake slightly.

This shaking makes people generally think that the dog is either cold or scared. Being cold is a pretty funny idea especially in the summer heat and with moderately hairy dog. But of course, you never know. Terriers shake, often it is said that it's kind of being prepared shake, a way to stay warm and ready for example to go after a rat at any time without danger of ruptures or other damage. When Tiuku was younger she also had that kind of shake, a bit different than the one she is having now. According to several opinions I have received from vets and other professionals this is due to an old age and aging of the nervous system. It doesn´t affect on her movement and it does not seem to bother the dog any way.

From the dog's physiology, we go back to the elderly couple. When they saw the vibration in the legs, they were wondering if there was something wrong with her? I assured them that there is no problem. I told the dog is just old, 13.5 years already and that´s why she is shaking a bit. And now comes the most important thing: all this conversation happened in the local language, no English or any other language was used. However, my dialect hopelessly revealed them that I´m not local so they were eager to know where I'm from. The knowledge of me coming from Finland gave them a very positive reaction and they very much praised my language skills. They asked if I live here and I said I have been in the country for 1.5 years. They seemed very happy and with the big smile they reiterated that it was so great that I had learned the language so well. It seemed to be a big thing for them. We continued in our own ways with happy smile.

In the name of honesty, the level of my Croat language is still very much at the point of beginner basics. But yes, it is quite surprising how well I understood yesterday and I was able to understandably communicate back. However, the greatest joy came from the encounter itself. Its genuineness and warmth, the interest and positive feedback shown by totally unknown people. I smiled all the way home and even after that. And this was not the only time something like this happened in here. Once after a few minutes of conversation (that time in English) with a complete stranger I surprisingly was given a bunch of oranges straight from the tree. At the beach I often meet an elderly lady, with whom we are having discussions in Croat and with the power of body language in very good spirit. And many other joyful moments with different people.

All these encounters has one thing in common. I have never experienced a negative attitude because of my foreign background. Usually the opposite. Often at first people seem to think I´m local, especially during the winter season when there are no tourists here and more so if there is a dog with me. When it turns out I do not necessarily speak so fluently in the local language and if the language skills of the opposite party are not the strongest area of ​​expertise, then with a smile they will spin some words in English or maybe German or at least there is a lot of vivid body language if they have something to say. And I'm trying to understand and be understood.

Hope that today you will meet someone completely unknown, create contact and get a great feeling about that.

Winter came to Dalmatia but the Finn is disappointed

Attached picture will describe this week quite widely on European scale. However, it was taken a month ago, not in Croatia, but in Sotkamo, Finland. There were 60 cm of snow and about -15 degrees. Normal day during winter time. We walked through forest to the hut, grilled sausages on open fire and drank some hot rum from a thermos bottle. Normal winter day activity.

Now, during this week we have experienced, heard and seen something not so normal. On the other side of the Adriatic Sea, Italy has measured -40 degrees, in Rome people have been skiing on the grassy slopes of the parks, in Barcelona the F1 cars remained in the garage when the snow covered the track. In England ski resorts had to close due to excessive snow. Schools have been closed across Europe and the roads have turned to one huge bumber car track. Even in Finland instructions were given to survive in a freezing atmosphere although the degrees that are now experienced are quite normal especially in the north. Right now it is reported that Geneva airport has been closed due to snowfall. At the same time in the Arctic region there is a heatwave and the snow melts away. What a bizarre moment in time.

Also here we have been experiencing quite crispy days. The Siberian breeze finally reached Dalmatia after hitting the northern inland with up to a couple of meters of snow. Yes, in Croatia. Here on the coastline and on the islands we just got a thin white cover, somewhere a bit more than other places. It's been six years since the last time winter surprised the Dalmatians, therefore this was not exactly the normal situation. And due to that, it sure was quite a hassle around it. Already throughout the previous week the upcoming winter hazard was among the top news. The ten point survival list was published including important notes like beware of walking under snowy trees and make sure you have enough food and drink at least for elderly and children. It was advised not to go anywhere by car and better not to go by foot either unless you have proper shoes. As a Finn who just came back from very wintry Finland, all this fuss made me smile a little. 

On the other hand, I almost expected such a good armageddon just to see how it would go. But no luck in that. Here in our village in Podstrana it can not be said that the land even became white. We didn't get bura wind that was expected or at least it did not hit Podstrana this time. It has now been a few minus degrees for three nights, but that's it. The schools were open normally and the cars have been sliding only with sand that was sprinkled on the roads as precaution. Which in itself is quite funny. I did take out my winter jacket and beanie to make sure I stayed warm when going out during these few chilly days. Last winter in Murter I felt much colder when thermometer showed minus ten days nonstop and bura came down hard. There was no snow back then but it was really cold. Compared to that these last days have been just a little frosty bite.

Today is still a chilly day. It even snowed little bit earlier but it melted away and left a ground wet. However, this is at least here the last day of winter. Tomorrow I do not need to wear winter jacket anymore but I still hold on to my woolen stockings for now.

Year in Croatia: living life to the fullest

It was a little over year ago when we drove across Europe to the Adriatic Sea. We became emigrants, expatriates and immigrants.

The past 12 months has given us tremendously, so many new things and experiences. I just watched the pictures I have taken over the year and they made me smile several times when remembering all those moments. There are sunny walks on the new trails by the beach in Murter, our Christmas atmosphere a year ago, the festive atmosphere of the February carnival, wild asparagus last spring, collecting sea shells from the beach, a great sailing trip in the spring winds, trips to the nearby islands and southern coast all the way to Montenegro, the visits of the loved ones here, the concert road trip to Pula, wonderful evenings on the terrace under the vine, turquoise sea, ancient fortresses, all the wonderful flavours. Most recently, our visit to Zagreb to celebrate the 100th anniversary of independent Finland at the Embassy party. And much more.

It hasn´t been just moments of smile. I've chopped rock hard firewood with nearly handleless ax, encountered several meters of poisonous worms, trembled in freezing temperatures in the chilling embrace of bura wind. I have been afraid of losing our home and even for my own safety while the summer forest fires raged, cleaned the terrace due to the ash that came from the sky after the forest fires. I have got out of bed well before six in the morning in order to be able go out for the walk with the dog before the sun appears to the sky during the worst heat wave.

I have encountered people. People who have met us with open arms and sometimes welcomed us into their lives as well. Sometimes even in astonishing ways. Helpfulness and genuine warm harted attitude have impressed me, over and over again. When a neighbor's old man waits for us on his driveway in the darkening night as we return from our two hour walk just to give me a bag full of mandarin and pomegranate or when our landlady pops in with the bowl of hot freshly cooked shrimps. Or when the fishermen on the beach are greeting me happily and smiling at a funny little dog who is so excited about the fishing. Or when our local friend comes from her home village with vegetables grown by her mother and with a big chunk of cheese. Or when in a small Austrian village one night we are creating friendships that will make us return again and again. Or when the small hence close-knit Finnish community here understands the joy of getting some liver casserole as a present from Finland and also confirmed that the Croatian word really is one and the same for both cranberries and lingonberries.

The year has taught, demanded and rewarded. It has made me laugh and cry.

Day after tomorrow we will begin our road trip to Finland, it´s going to be our longest visit there so far: one and a half months with travel. What are we waiting for? Getting to sauna for sure, seeing the people we love, both family and friends. Hopefully a bit of fun in winter wonderland. Of course some of the good tastes we have not been getting here at least so often. Campfire in the forest with some good things to eat and drink, the atmosphere of the traditional outdoor sauna and from sauna to have a break from the gentle heat to chilly outside under the starry sky. Visiting Vuokatti area in the more northern part of Finland. After all that it is good to return home, back here on the Adriatic coast. Cause here our home is. At least for now.